Most pc's had the nice option to power on a computer automatically when the power is applied (via the bios). With the surface pro 3 this is not an option (absent in the uefi boot menu).
If you are (planning on) using the Surface pro 3 tablet (or any uefi windows tablet?) you will run into this problem if you want to hide the power button of the tablet.
The surface pro 3 does activate when the power is connected when its sleeping. But for us the power could be disconnected for longer periods. The surface pro would go into hibernate mode or the battery would die, and in both of those cases you seem to need the power button to get it back to work.
There are 2 ways of going about this: changing the software, or changing the hardware. Personally (and as a software enthusiast) I wouldn't waste the time of rebuilding an entire kernel. I would actually go the hardware-modification route, even with limited experience (about 1 year).
But I'm going to make this sound easy. What you do, is, prop open the casing of the tablet so you can expose the motherboard and the power button.
Here are the materials you will need:
a needle-tip soldering iron, one of the smallest ones available.
good solder, ordered from online (Amazon) and not RadioShack brand (their solder beads up all the time and doesn't stick)
A >5v rated very very large capacitor (at least 3000uf to simulate holding the power button down for at least 3-5 seconds, get multiple/larger capacities just in case! 5500uf should be safe)
A 5v relay, to electronically toggle the power button (get some tiny solid-state ones on ebay)
Some patience
You will have to disassemble the power button and use your needle-tip to solder on manual leads (touching these leads should trigger the button)
Then, you will split a power V++ wire off the USB cable and attach the capacitor to it (the capacitor will send a 3-5 second pulse to the power button under DC power)
The negative side of the capacitor will connect to the coils on the relay (relay is a mechanical switch, to trip the power button in this case).
The NC (normally closed) switch side of the relay will connect the two leads of the power button.
I hope this helps you. The hardest part is soldering in the power button leads. Hopefully the button can be removed and soldered easily, without touching the ribbon cables. If you can't do the job, then use a DC motor to physically click the button. :) Good luck
Related
I have a Raspberry Pi B+ connected to an external USB disk, a Seagate Portable 1 Tb (no external power source).
Everything is working fine, but when the disk is writing/reading data, the red light (power) blinks, sometimes. But I don't have any power loss, or corrupted data.
I've tested with 3 different power sources:
1) a generic one, that blinks (5V 3A)
2) my original charger from Galaxy S4 (5V 2A) does the same
3) a Galaxy Tab 3 charger (5V 2A) the red light keeps always off
Since the original Samsung chargers are trustable, I believe that my external HD is using too much power? But if this is true, why Raspberry keeps on and I got no corrupted data?
The red light blinking but everything working fine is a real problem? Or can damage it in some weeks or months? Maybe I need consider stop using an external disk?
Thank you.
According to the wiki:
Red power LED is blinking
A blinking red power LED indicates problems
with the power supply. On model A and B, it is hard-wired to the 3.3V
power supply rail. If it is blinking, as one user has reported1 it
means the 5V power supply is dropping out. Use a different power
supply.
On model B+ (and presumably also the A+), the circuit has been
improved to give a much more reliable warning of poor power quality.
The red power LED is wired to an APX803 supervisor[2] which kicks in
when the 5V power supply drops below 4.63V[3]. If it does, the LED
will blink. Check your connections, cable, and power supply.
The raspberry pi 3B+ also seems to use the red pwr led as a error indicator !
I have a SD card (Apacer 16GB) that came with the pi, preloaded with noobs 245.
This card however does NOT work with the pi. When using this card: red pwr led on, NO green light, but after a few secs the RED led starts flashing a code every few seconds: 4x long, 3x short than on again.
So NO Power problem (5A supply, steady at 4.97v) !
This flashing red led only happens with this SD card, other SD cards boots OK....
I'm working on an arcade cabinet that will be able to play various video game consoles (real hardware, not emulated.) There will be a PC inside to run a selection menu. I'll have to write that myself. I'll also need program a PLC which will do various things like control the relays which switch audio/video/controls between the PC and the various consoles, etc. I'll need help with those two tasks in time, but they are not what I'm working on right now.
What I'm working on as a starting point has to do with the controller encoding. Basically, the controls for each player consist of a few buttons and a joystick. These use momentary, normally-open contact switches, one for each button, and one for each cardinal direction on the joystick. Pressing the button, or joystick direction, closes the switch. The state of the buttons is then communicated to the console by an encoder.
The encoder has a connection for each button and joystick direction which is connected to 5 volts ("high") through a pull-up resistor. When a button or direction is pressed, a connection to ground is made through the momentary switch. When the encoder reads ground ("low") on a button connection, it knows that a button has been pressed and it communicates this to the console.
I already have all this working with the various consoles, but I've thought of some features that would be nice to add. This is where my current task comes in.
The first feature is button remapping. Some of these games were designed with controllers in mind, so when you use them with an arcade control panel, some of the buttons may not be where you want them. Some games allow buttons to be remapped via software, but others do not. My idea is to add a PLC in between the joystick and buttons and the encoder. I'll call this PLC a "pre-encoder."
The pre-encoder would read the states of the buttons on some input pins, then write these states back to some output pins, relaying them to the encoder. The advantage is that its programming could associate any input pin with any output pin, effectively remapping the buttons. Whenever a console is selected via the computer's menu, a button-mapping profile associated with a particular game could be selected as well, and forwarded to the pre-encoder.
Of course, the pre-encoder's routine which reads the buttons and relays their states to the encoder must repeat very quickly for smooth control. These games will be running at about 50 to 60Hz, meaning a new a video frame every 16.67ms or less. Ideally, the pre-encoder will be able to repeat this routine many, many times per frame to ensure the absolute minimum input lag. I want to ensure that the code and hardware selection is optimized to run as fast as possible.
The second feature is turbo buttons. Some games, especially arcade games, require a fire button to be pressed repeatedly every time you want to fire your gun, or your ship's cannons, etc, even if you have unlimited ammo. This seems unnecessary, and it will tire your fingers out pretty quickly. A turbo button is one that can be held down continuously, yet the game is being told that you are rapidly pressing and releasing it. This could be done in software for anything running on the PC, or with an analog solution like a 555 timer, but the best method is to synchronize the turbo button timing with the video refresh rate. By feeding the vertical sync pulse from the PC or video game console's video output to a PLC, it will know exactly how often a frame of video is rendered. Turbo button timing can then be controlled by defining, in numbers of frames, the periods when the button should be pressed and released. Timing information could also be included with the game-specific button profiles.
The third feature is slow buttons. Actually, this would probably only be applied to the joystick, but I'm referring to the switches for its cardinal directions as buttons. In certain games (it will probably only be used in shmups) it is sometimes needed to move your character (ship/plane) through very tight spaces. If movement is too fast in response to even minimal joystick input, you may go too far and crash. The idea is that, while a slow activation button is held, the joystick will be made less responsive by rapidly activating and deactivating it in the same manner as the turbo buttons.
I'm not sure if I want the pre-encoder itself to be watching the vertical sync pulse or if it will slow it down too much. My current thinking is that a seperate PLC will be responsible for general management of the cab itself; watching the "on" button, switching relays, communicating directly with the PC, watching the vertical sync pulse, etc. This will free up the pre-encoder to run more quickly.
Here is some example "code" for the pre-encoder. Obviously, it's just a rough outline of what I have in mind, as I don't even know what language it will be. This example assumes that a dedicated PLC will be used just as the pre-encoder. A separate PLC will be responsible for watching the vertical sync pulse, in addition to other tasks, like getting a game profile from the computer and passing some of that info to the pre-encoder. That PLC will know what the frame timing should be for turbo and slow functions, it will count frames, and during frames when turbo buttons should be disabled, it outputs high to a pin on the pre-encoder PCB, letting it know to disable turbo buttons. During frames when it should be enabled, it outputs low to that pin. Same idea with the slow buttons. There is also a pin which the pre-encoder checks at the end of its routine, so it can be told to stop and await a different game profile.
get info from other PLC (which got it from the computer, from a user-selected game profile):
array containing list of turbo buttons (buttons are identified by what input pin they are connected to)
array containing list of slow buttons (will probably only be the joystick directions, if any)
array containing list of slow activation buttons (should normally be only one button, if any)
array containing list of normal buttons (not turbo or slow)
array containing which output pin to use for each button (this determines remapping)
Begin Loop
if turbo pin is high
for each turbo button
output pin = high
next
else
for each turbo button
output pin = input pin
next
end if
if slow pin is high and slow activation button is pressed
for each slow button
output pin = high
next
else
for each slow button
output pin = input pin
next
end if
for each normal button
output pin = input pin
next
Restart Loop unless stop pin is low
If you've read all this, thank you for your time. So (finally), here are my questions:
What are your overall thoughts; on my idea in general, feasibility, etc.?
What kind of PLC should I use for the pre-encoder? I was originally thinking of trying an Arduino, but my reading indicates that it will be much too slow, due to its use of high-level programming libraries. I don't have a problem building my own board around another PLC.
What language should I use to program the PLC? I don't mind learning a new language. There's no time limit on this project, and I'll put it in whatever it takes to get the pre-encoder running as fast as possible.
What will I need to flash my program onto the PLC?
At run-time, how should these PLC's communicate with each other, and with the PC?
Am I asking in the right place; right forum, right section, etc.? Anywhere else I should ask?
Awaiting your response eagerly,
-Rob
I have some thoughts that might be useful to you:
What are your overall thoughts; on my idea in general, feasibility, etc.?
This project sounds like you want to cheat at Defender, like I used to do with a 555 timer chip in my Atari joystick when I was a kid.
The project is feasible but you will need a pretty fast PLC.
You might spend a lot of time making this work, like a quest.
What kind of PLC should I use for the pre-encoder? I was originally thinking of trying an Arduino, but my reading indicates that it will be much too slow, due to its use of high-level programming libraries. I don't have a problem building my own board around another PLC.
As I thought of what PLC might be fast enough, a few things came to mind.
If you use a PLC that has a task architecture, you can use an event to trigger a task on the v-sync pulse, and another event to trigger on console activity. If you use a PLC without a task architecture, the user might recognize the variable latency that will occur as the program scan moves in and out of phase with the v-sync and the activity in the game. This might not be true if the PLC is fast enough, say 1ms scan time.
Most inexpensive PLCs are never going to make it. The overhead and performance will keep most PLCs around 5-10ms per scan. However, a PC-based PLC might work well. So maybe a Beckhoff controller will work nicely. If you use something like a CX2000, it has Windows 7, USB, DVI for the user interface, and an Ethercat bus on the side to attach physical I/O cards for the controller and console connections. See about the software below. There are many non-PC-based PLCs that would work fine, but these will likely be expensive and harder to integrate.
The Arduino solution should work if you are using a fast enough model. But your development time will be higher because it doesn't come with anything but a blank screen and a bunch of libraries. Troubleshooting is much more of a pain-in-the-neck than PLCs that really shine. You'll need to plan carefully to get the Arduino to work. Also, hardware interfacing a microcontroller is harder and you'll have to manage debouncing the switches in your code. Every PLC has filtering in its inputs, and the variety of I/O makes design easy. But, the Arduino or other microcontroller is really the choice if money is an issue. A fast PLC can be real expensive ($800 to $20k, think around $1500). If you are going to build more than a few systems, the Arduino might be better.
What language should I use to program the PLC? I don't mind learning a new language. There's no time limit on this project, and I'll put it in whatever it takes to get the pre-encoder running as fast as possible.
IEC61131 is a standard for PLC programming languages. In the USA most PLCs are programmed in ladder logic because it is really easy to learn and quicker to troubleshoot and maintain in machinery. Structured text has its advantages too, particularly in performance. It looks like some amalgamation of basic/C/Java, easy to learn and looks almost like your pseudocode example. As for your project, I think it could be programmed in either language. I would never use the other IEC61131 languages for this task.
Beckhoff TwinCAT3 uses MS Visual Studio as the IDE, where you can write both the selection menu (in VB/C++/C#) and the PLC code (in IEC61131) in the same project. The runtime license for TwinCAT (on the CX2000 unit) runs in kernel mode, providing processing performance to Windows 7 whenever it is not doing something else more important. I've used a few CX1020 models and they were great performers. The scan times were around 5ms with a significant amount of code. Faster units will scan <1ms.
What will I need to flash my program onto the PLC?
PLCs don't "flash" like microcontrollers. Whatever software you use to write the software will have a way to connect to the controller. The term "go online" makes the connection. The terms "download" and "upload" refer to transferring the program between the development computer and the PLC. The term "online edit" refers to making code changes while the PLC is executing the code. When modern PLCs are powered down, they use a battery to copy program and user RAM to flash. When they power up, they copy the flash back to RAM. To make a connection to any modern PLC, you will use a USB or Ethernet cable.
At run-time, how should these PLC's communicate with each other, and with the PC?
You plan more than one PLC? A PLC connection to a PC is a complicated subject. The term "OPC Server" refers to some [expensive] software that lets your custom Windows PC application access memory in PLCs. The Beckhoff solution glues all that together nicely without buying more stuff. PLC to PLC communication is easier. The method is usually by ethernet and varies widely as to the details.
Am I asking in the right place; right forum, right section, etc.? Anywhere else I should ask?
Sure, there is some PLC activity on this forum, which appears to tend toward hardcore PC/Web/Mobile development. I come here for awesomely intelligent answers to my deeper software questions.
You could try plctalk.net, a forum that is a little more geared toward nuts-and-bolts engineers and service techs with wild connectivity and compatibility questions related to machinery and automation. You might get some blank stares about vertical sync pulses. Their skill sets revolve around an industrial paradigm, where reliability is probably their highest calling.
You might also ask questions about performance on an Arduino or Microchip/Atmel/ARM forums. If you tell them that a PLC is faster than their hardware, that will rile them up real good! They might tell you that you can get microsecond performance numbers, which you can if you are using hardware interrupts and lots of physical circuitry to make that a reality, and you are able to cope with the sleepless nights of troubleshooting.
-Dennis
I have an iPad kiosk that runs a single app, I would like to conserve power by having it sleep/lock or go to a low power state (dim the screen) either on regular scheduled times (outside of business hours) or when idle for specified period of time. The low power state on scheduled intervals will be good enough if it is simpler, as they are usually in pretty consistent use during the day.
Any tutorials out there that show how to accomplish this in Objective-C, or perhaps a few snippets to get me started?
The kiosks physically prohibit use of any of the buttons. I looked into iOS 6 Guided Access, but I don't see how a user could unlock/wake the screen without access to the buttons. Another solution could be Kiosk Pro Plus - but $40 bucks a pop just for sleeping doesn't seem worth it, I'd like to program it myself if feasible.
MokiTouch is a free alternative to KioskPro and has the sleep feature. You can pay to add remote management, but that's optional.
MokiTouch.com for more info.
I'd like to start messing around programming and building something with an Arduino board, but I can't think of any great ideas on what to build. Do you have any suggestions?
I show kids, who have never programmed, or done any electronics before, to make a simple 'Phototrope', a light sensitive robot, in about a day. It costs under £30 (GBP) including Arduino, electronics and off-the-shelf mechanics. If folks really get into mobile robots, the initial project can grow and grow (which I feel is part of the fun).
There are international robot competitions which require relatively simple mechanics to get started, e.g. in the UK http://www.tic.ac.uk/micromouse/toh.asp
Ultimate performance require specially built machines (for lightness) , but folks would get creditable results with an Arduino Nano, the right electronics, and a couple of good motors.
A line following robot is the classic mobile robot project. The track can be as simple as electrical tape. Pololu have some fun videos about their near-Arduino 3PI robot. The sensors are about £1, and there are a bunch of simple motor+gearbox kits from lots of places for under £10. Add a few £ for motor control, and you have autonomous robot mechanics, in need of programming! Add an Infrared Remote receiver (about £1), and you can drive it around using your TV remote. Add a small solar cell, use an Arduino analogue input to measure voltage, and it can find the sun. With a bit more electronics, it can 'feed' itself. And so it gets more sophisticated. Each step might be no more than a few hours to a few days effort, and you'll find new problems to solve and learn from.
IMHO, the most interesting (low-cost) competitions are maze solving robots. The international competition rule require the robot to explore a walled maze, usually using Infrared sensors, and calculate their optimal route. The challenges include keeping track of current position to near-millimeter accuracy, dealing with real world's unpredictably noisy environment and optimising straight-line speed with shortest distance cornering.
All that in 16K of program, and 1K RAM, with real-time interrupt handling (as much as 100K interrupts/second for some motor systems), sensor sampling, motor speed control, and maze solving is an interesting programming challenge. (You might make it 'easy' with 32K of program, and 2K RAM :-)
I'm working on a 'constrained' robot challenge (based on Arduino) so that robot performance is mainly about programming rather than having a big budget.
Start small and build up to something more complex. Control servos. Blink LEDs. Debounce inputs. Read analog sensors. Display text on an LCD. Then put it together.
Despite the name, I like the "Evil Genius" book for PIC microcontrollers because of the small, easily digestible projects that tend to build on one another. It is, of course, aimed at PIC programmers rather than the Arduino, but the material covered will be useful no matter what you're developing on.
I know Arduino is trendy right now, but I also like the Teensy++ development board because of its low price-point ($24), breadboard-compatible PCB, relatively high pin count, Linux development environment, USB connectivity, and not needing a programmer. Worth considering for smaller projects.
If you come up with something cool, let me know. I need an excuse to do something fun :)
Bicycle-related ideas:
theft alarm (perhaps with radio link to a base station which is connected to a PC by Ethernet)
fancy trip computer (with reed switch or opto sensor on wheel)
integrate with a GPS telematics unit (trip logging) with Ethernet/USB download of logged data to PC. Also has an interesting PC programming component--integrate with Google Maps.
Other ideas:
Clock with automatic time sync from:
GPS receiver
FM radio signal with embedded RDS data with CT code
Digital radio (DAB+)
Mobile phone tower (would it require a subscription and SIM card for this receive-only operation?)
NTP server via:
Ethernet
WiFi
ZigBee (with a ZigBee coordinator that gets its time from e.g. Ethernet or GPS)
Mains electricity smart meter via ZigBee (I'm interested now that smart meters are being introduced in Victoria, Australia; not sure if the smart meters broadcast the time info though, and whether it requires authentication)
Metronome
Instrument tuner
This reverse-geocache puzzle box was an awesome Arduino project. You could take this to the next step, e.g. have a reverse-geocache box that gives out a clue only at a specific location, and then using physical clues found at that location coupled with the next clue from the box, determine where to go for the next step.
You could do one of the firefighting robot competitions. We built a robot in university for my bachelor's final project, but didn't have time to enter the competition. Plus the robot needed some polish anyway... :)
Video here.
Mind you, this was done with a Motorola HC12 and a C compiler, and most components outside the microcontroller board were made from scratch, so it took longer than it should. Should be much easier with prefab components.
Path finding/obstacle navigation is typically a good project to start with. If you want something practical, take a look at how iRobot vacuums the floor and come up with a better scheme.
Depends on your background and if you want practical or cool. On the practical side, a remote control could be a simple starting point. It's got buttons and lights but isn't too demanding.
For a cool project maybe a Simon-style memory game or anything with lights & noises (thinking theremin-style).
I don't have suggestions or perhaps something like a line follower robot. I could help you with some links for inspiration
Arduino tutorials
Top 40 Arduino Projects of the Web
20 Unbelievable Arduino Projects
I'm currently developing plans to automate my 30 year old model train layout.
A POV device could be fun to build (just google for POV Arduino). POV means persistence of vision.
I'd like to start out with the Arduino to make something that will (preferably) dim my room lights and turn on some recessed lighting for my computer when a button or switch is activated.
First of all, is this even possible with the Arduino?
Secondly, how would I switch on and off real lights with it? Some sort of relay, maybe?
Does anyone know of a good tutorial or something where at least parts of this are covered? I'll have no problems with the programming, just don't know where to start with hardware.
An alternative (and safer than playing with triacs – trust me I've been shocked by one once and that's enough!) is to use X-10 home automation devices.
There is a PC (RS232) device (CM12U UK or CM11 US) you can get to control the others. You can also get lamp modules that fit between your lamp and the wall outlet which allows you to dim the lamp by sending signals over the mains and switch modules which switch loads on and off.
The Arduino has a TTL level RS232 connector (it's basically what the USB connection uses) – Pins 0 and 1 on the Diecimila so you could use that, connect it via a level converter which you can buy or make and connect to the X-10 controller, theirs instructions on the on the Arduino website for making a RS232 port.
Alternatively you could use something like the FireCracker for X-10 which uses 310MHz (US) or 433MHz (UK) and have your Arduino send out RF signals which the TM12U converts into proper X-10 mains signals for the dimmers etc.
In the US the X-10 modules are really cheep as well (sadly not the case in the UK).
Most people do it using triacs. A triac is like two diodes in anti-parallel (in parallel, but with their polarity reversed) with a trigger pin. A triac conducts current in either direction only when it's triggered. Once triggered, it acts as a regular diode, it continues to conduct until the current drops bellow its threshold.
You can see it as a bi-directional switch on a AC line and can vary the mean current by triggering it in different moments relative to the moment the AC sine-wave crosses zero.
Roughly, it works like this: At the AC sine-wave zero, your diodes turn off and your lamp doesn't get any power. If you trigger the diodes, say, halfway through the sine's swing, you lamp will get half the normal current it would get, so it lights with half of it's power, until the sine-wave crosses zero again. At this point you start over.
If you trigger the triac sooner, your lamp will get current for a longer time interval, glowing brighter. If you trigger your triac latter, your lamp glows fainter.
The same applies to any AC load.
It is almost the same principle of PWM for DC. You turn your current source on and off quicker than your load can react, The amount of time it is turned on is proportional to the current your load will receive.
How do you do that with your arduino?
In simple terms you must first find the zero-crossing of the mains, then you set up a timer/delay and at its end you trigger the triac.
To detect the zero-crossing one normally uses an optocoupler. You connect the led side of the coupler with the mains and the transistor side with the interrupt pin of your arduino.
You can connect your arduino IO pins directly to the triacs' triggers, bu I would use another optocoupler just to be on the safe side.
When the sine-wave approaches zero, you get a pulse on your interrupt pin.
At this interrupt you set up a timer. the longer the timer, the less power your load will get. You also reset your triacs' pins state.
At this timers' interrupt you set your IO pins to trigger the triacs.
Of course you must understand a little about the hardware side so you don't fry your board, and burn your house,
And it goes without saying you must be careful not to kill yourself when dealing with mains AC =).
HERE is the project that got me started some time ago.
It uses AVRs so it should be easy to adapt to an arduino.
It is also quite complete, with schematics.
Their software is a bit on the complex side, so you should start with something simpler.
There is just a ton of this kind of stuff at the Make magazine site. I think you can even find some examples of similar hacks.
I use MOSFET for dimming 12V LED strips using Arduino. I chose IRF3710 for my project with a heat sink to be sure, and it works fine. I tested with 12V halogen lamp, it worked too.
I connect PWM output pin from Arduino directly to mosfet's gate pin, and use analogWrite in code to control brightness.
Regarding 2nd question about controlling lights, you can switch on/off 220V using relays, as partially seen on my photo, there are many boards for this, I chose this:
As a quick-start, you can get yourself one of those dimmerpacks (50-80€ for four lamps).
then build the electronics for the arduino to send DMX controls:
Arduino DMX shield
You'll get yourself both the arduino-expirience + a good chance of not frying your surrounding with higher voltage..