I have a basys3 board with a 100MHZ oscillator, I was wondering if it would be feasible to get a 200Mhz clock by pulsing the output on the rising and falling edge of the 100Mhz oscillator. I cant seem to find any material online about people attempting this. thanks for any and all help.
I recommend against it, you should use a PLL or MMCM IP modules, which you can configure in Vivado.
Related
I am wondering if it makes sense to fuse multiple GPS signals to improve my estimated result. This works fine for example for accelartion sensors, but this sensors have a white gaussian noise.
GPS sensors being mounted on the same board probably suffer from the same errors like drift or multi-path effects, which cannot be corrected by only fuse the sensor readings of this sensors. I imagine that like a constant offset in the same direction, which won t be correct just stays nearly the same.
Furthermore, I have diffrent sensor which I can mount on my drone, even RKT sensor. In my opinion, it makes no sense to fuse a d-GPS with readings from an RKT GPS.
Please correct my if I am wrong.
Thank you in advance and I hope this forum is the right spot to ask that question.
yes you can. Use EKF based approach with onboard multi GPS and multi IMU
The DJi is doing it, But it is can only prevent one of sensor failure, not the systematic drift patter. To avoid that, you need some more source such as visual odometry or lidar odometry to fuse in the EKF. GPS sate count is good meaure of how bad the position is. It ranges from 0 to 15. So when every one is 15, trust GPS more less variance. When everyone is lower than 6 add very high variance to GPS source.
Yes RTK might be better when you have direct line of sight. But once out of sight, then other GPS might be better. So totaly depends on your use case
Does DAQmx solely work with NI hardware or can it work with other brands of equipment? If it cannot how would I start to make a block diagram for an optical encoder that stores the position of a stepper motor? Sorry for the newbie question, thank you.
As #AndreTec mentioned, Arduino would be good solution if you have moderate speed motor. You can connect your encoder outputs to two interrupt pins.
However, I encourage you to use pure serial communication between Arduino and LabVIEW to avoid data loss since no LabVIEW addons deals with interrupt up to the best of my knowledge.
I'm using STM32f103 micro controller for a while and today I just confused about clock source and PLL configuration!
I know the clock source is HSI by default when micro starts and startup_stm32f10x_xx.s runs, but I don't know if PLL sets or not!? how can I know whats my micro freq?
thank you
A call to RCC_GetClocksFreq() will tell you the clock frequencies (SYSCLK, HCLK, PCLK1, PCLK2, ADCCLK).
If you are using the CMSIS library for the STM32, it has functions to configure the clock and also functions to tell you at runtime what the clock is.
If you are not, you will have to look to see where the clock source is being set, and if it is the HSE you will need to know what crystal you have. Once you have that info, you can then look at the M, N, and P parameters of the PLL (if used) to calculate your HCLK. You should be able to find all this information in the reference manual for the STM32F103 in the RCC (reset and clock control) section.
Hi Im using the following RF module
http://www.apogeekits.com/rf_receiver_module_rx433.htm
on an embedded board with the PIC16F628A. Sadly, I realized that the signal strength was in analog form and couldn't get any ideas to get the RSSI reading off the pin because well my PIC is digital DUH!.
My basic idea was
To get the RSSI value from my Receiver
Send it to the PIC
Link the PIC to a PC via RS232
Plot a graph of time vs RSSI of the receiver (so I can make out how close my TX is to my RX)
I thought it was bloody brilliant at first but ive hit a dead end here. Any ideas on getting the RSSI data to my PC from this receiver would be nice.
Thanks in Advance
You can get a PIC that has an integrated ADC for sampling the analog signal. Or, you can use an external ADC chip to do the conversion. You would connect that to your PIC using SPI or I2C.
The simplest thing to do is obviously to use a more appropriate microcontroller - one with an ADC! There are many (most), including PICs (though that wouldn't be my first choice).
Attaching an external SPI or I2C ADC might be a bit tedious since having no SPI or I2C on your part, you'd have to bit-bash it. If you do that, use an SPI part - its simpler. Your sample rate will suffer and may end-up being a bit jittery if you are not careful.
Another solution is to use a voltage controlled PWM, then use the timer input capture to time the pulse width. That will give you good regularity and potentially good resolution. You can get a chip (example) to do that, or grow your own. That last option requires a triangle wave input as well as the measured (control) voltage, but on the same site...
In a similar vein, you could use a low frequency VCO (example) and use the output to clock one of the timers, then using a second timer periodically sampling the first and reset it. The count will relate to the voltage, though not necessarily a linear relationship, linearisation could be none on the PIC or at the receiving PC - I'd go for the latter - your micro will suck at arithmetic (performance wise) - even integer arithmetic, especially if it involves division.
I'd like to start out with the Arduino to make something that will (preferably) dim my room lights and turn on some recessed lighting for my computer when a button or switch is activated.
First of all, is this even possible with the Arduino?
Secondly, how would I switch on and off real lights with it? Some sort of relay, maybe?
Does anyone know of a good tutorial or something where at least parts of this are covered? I'll have no problems with the programming, just don't know where to start with hardware.
An alternative (and safer than playing with triacs – trust me I've been shocked by one once and that's enough!) is to use X-10 home automation devices.
There is a PC (RS232) device (CM12U UK or CM11 US) you can get to control the others. You can also get lamp modules that fit between your lamp and the wall outlet which allows you to dim the lamp by sending signals over the mains and switch modules which switch loads on and off.
The Arduino has a TTL level RS232 connector (it's basically what the USB connection uses) – Pins 0 and 1 on the Diecimila so you could use that, connect it via a level converter which you can buy or make and connect to the X-10 controller, theirs instructions on the on the Arduino website for making a RS232 port.
Alternatively you could use something like the FireCracker for X-10 which uses 310MHz (US) or 433MHz (UK) and have your Arduino send out RF signals which the TM12U converts into proper X-10 mains signals for the dimmers etc.
In the US the X-10 modules are really cheep as well (sadly not the case in the UK).
Most people do it using triacs. A triac is like two diodes in anti-parallel (in parallel, but with their polarity reversed) with a trigger pin. A triac conducts current in either direction only when it's triggered. Once triggered, it acts as a regular diode, it continues to conduct until the current drops bellow its threshold.
You can see it as a bi-directional switch on a AC line and can vary the mean current by triggering it in different moments relative to the moment the AC sine-wave crosses zero.
Roughly, it works like this: At the AC sine-wave zero, your diodes turn off and your lamp doesn't get any power. If you trigger the diodes, say, halfway through the sine's swing, you lamp will get half the normal current it would get, so it lights with half of it's power, until the sine-wave crosses zero again. At this point you start over.
If you trigger the triac sooner, your lamp will get current for a longer time interval, glowing brighter. If you trigger your triac latter, your lamp glows fainter.
The same applies to any AC load.
It is almost the same principle of PWM for DC. You turn your current source on and off quicker than your load can react, The amount of time it is turned on is proportional to the current your load will receive.
How do you do that with your arduino?
In simple terms you must first find the zero-crossing of the mains, then you set up a timer/delay and at its end you trigger the triac.
To detect the zero-crossing one normally uses an optocoupler. You connect the led side of the coupler with the mains and the transistor side with the interrupt pin of your arduino.
You can connect your arduino IO pins directly to the triacs' triggers, bu I would use another optocoupler just to be on the safe side.
When the sine-wave approaches zero, you get a pulse on your interrupt pin.
At this interrupt you set up a timer. the longer the timer, the less power your load will get. You also reset your triacs' pins state.
At this timers' interrupt you set your IO pins to trigger the triacs.
Of course you must understand a little about the hardware side so you don't fry your board, and burn your house,
And it goes without saying you must be careful not to kill yourself when dealing with mains AC =).
HERE is the project that got me started some time ago.
It uses AVRs so it should be easy to adapt to an arduino.
It is also quite complete, with schematics.
Their software is a bit on the complex side, so you should start with something simpler.
There is just a ton of this kind of stuff at the Make magazine site. I think you can even find some examples of similar hacks.
I use MOSFET for dimming 12V LED strips using Arduino. I chose IRF3710 for my project with a heat sink to be sure, and it works fine. I tested with 12V halogen lamp, it worked too.
I connect PWM output pin from Arduino directly to mosfet's gate pin, and use analogWrite in code to control brightness.
Regarding 2nd question about controlling lights, you can switch on/off 220V using relays, as partially seen on my photo, there are many boards for this, I chose this:
As a quick-start, you can get yourself one of those dimmerpacks (50-80€ for four lamps).
then build the electronics for the arduino to send DMX controls:
Arduino DMX shield
You'll get yourself both the arduino-expirience + a good chance of not frying your surrounding with higher voltage..